Waikoloa Travel Guide: Kohala Coast Beaches, Petroglyphs, Maunakea Stargazing and When to Go

Late in the afternoon the lava fields along the highway turn the color of old bronze, and the first golf carts glide across the resort lawns as the sun drops toward the water. Waikoloa sits on the Big Island’s dry Kohala coast, a sunny stretch of black rock, white sand and manicured resort grounds. It suits beach lovers and families who want warm days and easy access to the island’s big sights.

Where is Waikoloa and what is it like?

Waikoloa lies on the northwest side of the Big Island, on the dry Kohala coast between Kailua-Kona and the Waimea uplands. It is mostly a resort destination, with large hotels, shopping centers and condo communities spread across an open landscape of dark lava and golden grass.

The pace is unhurried and built around the beach, the pool and the golf course. Rain is rare here, so the sky is usually blue and the hillsides look dry and tawny rather than jungle green.

Families and couples who want sunshine and comfort will feel at home. Travelers looking for a walkable old town with local shops and street life may find it too polished and spread out, and Kailua-Kona or Waimea would suit them better.

What is there to do in Waikoloa?

The big reasons to come are the beaches, the Hawaiian history along this coast and the mountain skies above it. What sets Waikoloa apart from its neighbors is that all three sit within an easy drive of a resort base with dependable sunshine.

Beaches on the Kohala coast

Hapuna Beach is the one most visitors picture: a broad crescent of pale sand backed by trees, with room to spread out and a lively crowd on weekends. Nonresident visitors pay at the gate to this state recreation area.

Smaller coves tucked beside the resorts suit a quieter morning with a mask and snorkel. Winter surf can make the shore break rough, and conditions change from morning to afternoon, so read the posted warnings and check the day’s surf and currents before going in, and swim near a lifeguard only where one is on duty. If you see a green sea turtle resting on the sand, keep at least 10 feet away, as NOAA Fisheries recommends.

Heiau and history

Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, a short drive north, is a massive stone temple that Kamehameha I had built around 1790 as he rose to power. It was here, in 1791, that his cousin Keoua was slain. Standing on the dry hillside above the water, you feel how much this place mattered in the story of the islands.

The site charges no entrance fee. Visit in the morning, when the light on the stones is soft and the wind is calmer, and treat the temple with respect by keeping off the walls. Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park, also free to enter, adds fishponds and old trails along the coast near Kona.

Maunakea and the night sky

From the Waikoloa side, a drive up Maunakea takes you from warm beach air to a cold, thin-aired summit that reaches 13,796 feet. The Onizuka Center visitor station, at 9,200 feet, is the usual stopping point for adjusting to the altitude and watching the sky darken.

Two-wheel-drive vehicles are not permitted above the visitor station, so going farther takes a four-wheel-drive. Bring warm layers even in summer, since the temperature drops sharply after sunset. The stars here are among the clearest you will see, and the trip suits stargazers and anyone curious about the island’s volcanic heights.

How many days do you need in Waikoloa?

A long weekend gives you a good taste, and a week lets you settle in and see more of the island. In three or four days you can fit in a couple of beach mornings, a visit to the heiau and an evening on Maunakea.

With a full week you can slow down, snorkel more, and spend days elsewhere on the island. Day trips reach Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, which is a 2 to 3 hour drive from Kona side depending on the route, or the town of Hilo on the wet east coast. Those are long days, so many travelers save them for a longer stay.

Where to stay in Waikoloa

Most visitors choose between the large beachfront resorts and the condo and vacation-rental communities set back from the shore. The resorts suit families who want pools, restaurants and activities in one place. The condos and rentals give more space and a kitchen, which works for longer stays and groups.

Lodging is subject to state and county transient accommodations taxes, which are added to the room rate. Staying farther up the coast near Hapuna puts you closest to the beach, while staying nearer the highway makes errands and drives simpler.

How do you get to Waikoloa and get around?

Most visitors fly into Kona International Airport at Keahole, the nearest major airport on the dry west side, and drive north along the coast. Hilo International Airport is the other option, on the wetter east side, and it makes sense if your plans center on the volcano.

Distances here are large and the sights are spread out, so a rental car is how most people get around. Within the resort areas, you can walk between hotels, shops and the beach, but trips to Hapuna, the heiau or Maunakea all need a vehicle.

When is the best time to visit Waikoloa?

Waikoloa is sunny nearly all year, so the best months depend on the heat and the crowds. April, May and October are lovely, with highs in the mid-80s, about one rainy day a month and a calmer feel than the holiday weeks. Winter stays warm too, with highs in the low 80s and a couple of showery days a month.

The hottest stretch runs from July through September, when afternoons climb to the upper 80s. The beaches are lively then, with summer family vacations, and the water on west-facing shores is usually at its gentlest. Winter brings bigger surf to north-facing shores, and the Christmas and New Year weeks and mainland spring break fill the resorts.

The Central Pacific hurricane season runs from June 1 to November 30. Even so, the dry Kohala coast gets only a small amount of rain over a whole year, a sharp contrast with Hilo on the east side, which is far wetter.

Good to know before you go

There is no passport or visa to think about, and the sun is strong, so reef-safe sunscreen and a hat go a long way. Give sea turtles space, keep off the reef and treat sacred sites with respect.