At first light in December, the canals of Tortuguero are silent except for the drip of leaves and the hoarse calls of howler monkeys drifting out of the canopy. Boats slip along the water while herons stand like statues on the banks and kingfishers flash between the roots.
Christmas lights go up in the village, and the high season begins. This is a month of green forest, wet days and wildlife seen from a small boat.
What is the weather like in Tortuguero in December?
Tortuguero in December brings warmth, humidity and rain on most days, yet it falls a bit short of November’s totals. Showers can be heavy, so plan around them rather than hoping to avoid them.
| Month | Average high (°F) | Average low (°F) | Rain days | Sea (°F) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| November | 80.8 | 73.0 | 24.4 | 84.4 |
| December | 80.1 | 71.9 | 20.8 | 82.6 |
| January | 80.0 | 71.2 | 16.0 | 82.3 |
Rain here falls on the Caribbean side, and it does not keep to a schedule. A gray, drizzly morning can turn into a downpour by lunch, or a bright hour can open up between two squalls. Some days bring a real soaking, so a good share of your time is spent under a poncho or a lodge roof, with the forest dripping around you.
Afternoons are warm and sticky, and evenings stay mild enough for short sleeves, though damp air can make a breeze feel cool on the water. Daylight lasts a little over eleven hours, so the light fades early in the evening and mornings start soft and gray-green. Clothes dry slowly in this humidity, so bring quick-drying layers and a spare dry set for the evening.
Can you swim in Tortuguero in December?
The sea is warm in December, but Tortuguero’s beach is better treated as a place for walking, not swimming. Rip currents in Costa Rica are so dangerous that they cause several drownings of U.S. tourists every year, and at most beaches no lifeguards are present and nothing warns you about unsafe conditions.
The Caribbean shore at Tortuguero is a long, wild strip of dark sand backed by palms, better for a barefoot walk at the edge of the surf than for bathing. Waves often roll in heavy, and conditions change from one day to the next. Before you go in, check with your lodge about that day’s water, obey any flags posted, and keep kids close enough to touch on the sand.
Most visitors cool off in a lodge pool instead, which suits families and nervous swimmers well. The warm sea is more of a backdrop here, something to watch from the beach at sunrise while the clouds break up over the horizon.
What to do in Tortuguero in December
The canals are the heart of any December visit. Visitors set out on the water to find caimans, monkeys, herons and kingfishers, and most of them stay at lodges that offer guided tours. In wet weather the forest is loud and lush, and a quiet engine or a paddle makes a big difference to what you hear.
Tortuguero itself is a small village, reachable only by boat or small plane, with no roads in. That shapes everything, from the tour schedule to the pace of the day. Evenings are slow, with the sound of rain on tin roofs and a few lights along the waterfront.
Canal tours at dawn
Early morning is the best moment on the water. Wildlife is most active as the light comes up, and the canals are still before the day’s boats arrive. You may see howler and spider monkeys in the trees, green and black poison dart frogs on leaf litter, basilisk lizards on branches and a heron fishing at the bank.
A guide helps enormously, since they spot sloths and caimans that look like logs or tangled vines to everyone else. In December, ask your guide to cut the engine now and then so the howler monkeys, frogs, and birds can fill the air with sound. A poncho is worth more than a camera lens cover here, and a dry bag protects your phone and binoculars.
Dawn tours suit anyone who likes birds and quiet, and they tend to fit around the weather better than afternoon outings. Cloud and drizzle do not stop the animals, but heavy rain does send many of them under cover, so patience pays.
Walking the village and the beach
The village is a short stroll of colorful wooden houses, small sodas serving casados (a plate of rice, beans, salad and a main), souvenir stalls and open-air bars. Between showers, walk the main path to the beach and watch the heavy surf roll in. Christmas lights and decorations bring a festive feel to the waterfront.
Sunset on the beach can be moody rather than golden, with big clouds over the water. It is a good hour to wander, take photographs and listen to the waves, though not to swim. Walks along the sand are quieter before the evening, and the forest edge is lively with insects and frogs after dark.
Festive December in the rest of the country
Early and mid-December bring Christmas lights, posadas and the Festival de la Luz, a night parade of illuminated floats in San Jose. The Tope, a horse parade, follows in San Jose on December 26, and the Zapote festival runs from Christmas to New Year’s. Those who pass through the capital on the way to Tortuguero can catch the mood there.
In Tortuguero, the celebrations are smaller and more local, with lights strung in the village and lodges setting out a festive meal. December is also the start of the high season, so the village has more visitors and the boats run busier than in the quiet months.
A two-day itinerary for Tortuguero in December
Day 1. Arrive by boat or small plane and settle in at your lodge in the late morning. Eat lunch there, then walk the village while the rain allows, stopping at a soda for a casado and a fruit juice. Late afternoon is the time to stroll the beach, with the light fading early and the surf loud.
After dinner, listen to the forest from the lodge porch. Frogs, insects and the odd bird call fill the dark. Turn in early, since the next morning starts before the sun.
Day 2. Set off on a canal tour at dawn, when wildlife is stirring and the water lies calm. Be back for a late breakfast, then rest during the heaviest rain. If the weather turns, spend the midday in the lodge with a book, a hot drink and a view of the canal.
In the afternoon, take a second, shorter boat outing if the sky clears, or visit a village shop for crafts. Eat a last dinner at the lodge or a local restaurant, then pack your dry bag for the trip out the next day.
Is Tortuguero busy in December?
Yes, December is the start of the high season, and the village fills with travelers, especially around Christmas and New Year’s. Lodges are busier, boats are fuller and the canals see more traffic than in the quiet months.
Because Tortuguero is reachable only by boat or small plane, arrange lodging and transportation together. Book early for the holiday weeks, and a little later for the first part of the month, which is calmer. Lodge packages vary, so confirm whether meals and tours are included and reserve each part your stay requires.
Families on school break and couples on a holiday trip make up much of the crowd. Mornings on the canals are still quiet if you go out early, and the village empties out in the rain. Restaurants in town are small, so a table can take a moment at the busiest hours.
What to pack for Tortuguero in December
Pack for warm, wet days and damp evenings, with gear that dries quickly and protects your electronics.
- A light rain jacket or poncho, since showers come on most days
- Quick-drying shirts and shorts, because clothes dry slowly in the humidity
- Waterproof sandals or boots for muddy paths and boat docks
- A dry bag for your phone, camera and passport
- Insect repellent for dawn and dusk
- Binoculars for birds and monkeys in the canopy
Good to know before you go
The U.S. State Department rates Costa Rica Level 2, ‘Exercise increased caution,’ due to crime; it says petty crime is common throughout Costa Rica and that violent crime also affects tourists, including armed robbery, homicide and sexual assault.
December comes just after the Atlantic hurricane season, but the Caribbean coast stays wet and the sea can run heavy. Getting in and out of Tortuguero takes planning, since there are no roads and the only ways are by boat or small plane. Book the room and the transfer first, because holiday weeks fill early. Petty crime is common throughout Costa Rica, so keep valuables secured.
Tortuguero in December vs November and January
Going a month earlier means more rain, with nearly every day wet, and a slightly warmer sea. November is quieter, with fewer visitors and easier rooms, but the weather is the wettest of the three months.
Going a month later brings noticeably fewer rainy days and a sea a touch cooler, though still warm. January is still high season, so rooms stay busy, but the drier spell makes boat tours more comfortable. The holiday festivals of December, in San Jose and across the country, will have passed.
Travelers who want the festive mood and do not mind rain should choose December. Those who put dry weather first should lean toward January, and anyone after quiet canals and an easier booking can look at November.
Is December a good time to visit Tortuguero?
Absolutely, this is for travelers who adore the rainforest and do not object to getting soaked. December gives you green forest, active wildlife and a festive mood in the village, along with the start of the high season.
It suits birders, wildlife fans and anyone happy to spend mornings in a poncho on a quiet canal. It is less suited to travelers who need sunny beach days, since the sea is rough for swimming and rain is the rule. Confirm your dawn canal tour with the lodge before arrival. What makes December special here is the contrast: a dripping, loud, green forest at dawn, and a village strung with Christmas lights by night.
Sources
- Open-Meteo / ECMWF ERA5, normals 1991-2020 computed for the grid cell at 10.543N 83.502W, checked October 8, 2026
- Open-Meteo Marine API, average 2015-2024, checked October 8, 2026
- sunrise-sunset.org, sunrise and sunset calculated for the 15th of the month, checked October 8, 2026
- U.S. Department of State, Costa Rica Travel Information, Safety and security (https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/CostaRica.html), checked October 8, 2026
- U.S. Department of State, Costa Rica Travel Advisory, issued April 1, 2026 (https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/costa-rica-travel-advisory.html), read via the State Department open data API on October 8, 2026
To plan your stay
- Things to Do in Tortuguero: Canal Boats, Turtle Nesting, Rainforest Walks and Caribbean Food
- Where to Stay in Tortuguero: Village, Beachfront and Canal Lodges
- Tortuguero National Park: Turtle Nesting, Canal Boat Tours, Hours and How to Get There
- Best Time to Visit Tortuguero: Turtle Season, Weather by Month and Canal Tours