La Fortuna in December: Weather, Hot Springs, Waterfall and Holiday Season

In December the clouds that sit on the Arenal Volcano all November begin to lift in the early morning, and the town square fills with families eating ice cream under strings of Christmas lights. Coffee smells drift from the sodas along the main street, and the hot springs steam in the cooler evenings. It is the start of high season in La Fortuna, a green and lively month for soaking, waterfall stairs and slow dinners after dark.

Arenal Volcano above the fields near La Fortuna in the dry season · Illustration

What is the weather like in La Fortuna in December?

December is warm and still rainy, with mild days, soft evenings and showers that come less often than in November. Expect weather you can plan around, but not count on.

Month	Average high (°F)	Average low (°F)	Rain days
November	77.9	69.2	22.2
December	77.3	68.2	17.5
January	77.6	67.1	12.9

Days are warm without being hot, which suits the staircase down to the waterfall and the hanging bridges. The mornings tend to be the best window for views of the volcano, though clouds can settle over the summit at any hour and nothing guarantees a clear cone. Light rain jackets earn their space here, because showers can arrive in the afternoon or drift in on a gray, drizzly day.

Most days this month see rain, though it usually arrives as a brief shower instead of lasting all day, and just a handful of days deliver a true downpour. Hot springs are lovely in the rain, which is a good card to keep up your sleeve. Evenings are mild enough for dinner on a covered terrace in a light layer.

Daylight lasts a little over eleven hours in mid-December, so the day ends early. Plan outdoor walks for the morning and leave the evening for the springs, where steam rising into the dark is part of the charm.

What to do in La Fortuna in December

December in La Fortuna is a holiday month. Christmas lights go up across Costa Rica, and posadas, the neighborhood gatherings of the season, mark the weeks before Christmas. The big national events happen in San Jose rather than here, among them the Festival de la Luz, a night parade of illuminated floats in early and mid-December.

The Tope, a horse parade, follows in San Jose on December 26, and the Zapote festival runs from Christmas to New Year’s. Visitors based in La Fortuna are more likely to see the lights and the festive mood in the town square than the big parades.

At this time of year, the table brings casados (rice, beans, salad and your pick of meat or fish), tamales served warm near Christmas, and coffee hot with a sweet bite at a stand along the road. Gallo pinto, the rice and beans of breakfast, tastes best after an early start. Fresh fruit juices and cold beers are the afternoon answer when the clouds clear.

The La Fortuna Waterfall

A long staircase leads down through the forest to the waterfall, which spills into a green basin beyond town. Before you even see the falls, their roar finds you, and down near the base the spray takes the edge off the heat. It makes a rewarding half-day outing from town.

Go early, when the stairs are quieter and the light on the water is soft. Swimming in the pool at the bottom is a popular stop. Heading back up is what truly takes it out of you, so go at an easy pace and carry water.

Good shoes with grip matter more in December than in a month with short dry spells, since the steps stay damp. Families with small children or anyone with sore knees should weigh the stairs before committing.

Hot springs after dark

The area around the volcano is the main base for hot springs, and December evenings are made for them. Warm water, cool air and steam rising into the dark make it the best answer to a rainy afternoon. Options run from large resort complexes with pools and swim-up bars to quieter spots with a few natural pools among the trees.

Go late in the afternoon, soak while the light fades, and stay for dinner if the place has a restaurant. Light rain only adds to the atmosphere. Bring a towel and sandals, and plan a slow evening with nothing scheduled afterward.

Hanging bridges, the volcano and the lake

Stretching through the treetops, the hanging bridges form walkways that fit best in the early hours, when the air is cool and birds are active. Guided walks can improve the chances of spotting monkeys, sloths and toucans, yet sightings stay possibilities, not guarantees. A light rain makes the forest smell rich and the trails slick.

Arenal Volcano dominates the horizon, and on a clear morning the cone is worth a long look from town or from the lake shore. The lake is a calm place for a slow afternoon, with views that change as the clouds move. Before you set out on any trail, look at the park’s official page for the rules in effect.

If the sky closes in, the hot springs and a long lunch become the plan. Few people mind, because December in La Fortuna is as much about warm water and good food as about the view.

A two-day itinerary for La Fortuna in December

Because the morning is usually the clearest stretch and the stairs are calmer then, Day 1 begins with the waterfall. Once the gates open, make for the stairs, cool off in the pool if it looks calm, and then climb back up for gallo pinto and eggs at a soda in town, a late breakfast. Midday is for a walk around the square and lunch at a casual spot, with a rest while the afternoon showers pass.

In the late afternoon head for the hot springs, since darkness comes early with only a little over eleven hours of daylight. Take a dip while the daylight dims, then have your evening meal either at the springs or back in town. If the rain turns heavy, the springs are still the right place to be.

Day 2 belongs to the canopy. Begin with a guided stroll across the hanging bridges while the birds are still lively, then make your way by car or ride to the lake for a relaxed midday and an unhurried lunch with a view, whenever the clouds permit.

Spend the afternoon on a coffee or chocolate stop, or wander the shops in town, then return for sunset drinks and a festive dinner under the Christmas lights. In heavy rain, linger over lunch and trade the bridges for a covered activity.

Is La Fortuna busy in December?

Yes, December is the start of the high season, and La Fortuna fills with families and holiday travelers, especially around Christmas and New Year’s.

The hot springs, the waterfall stairs and the better restaurants see the biggest crowds, and mornings are calmer than midday.

Costa Ricans travel in December too, with the festive mood spilling into the weekends. Tables at popular dinner spots fill on Friday and Saturday evenings, so a reservation helps.

The early weeks of December feel quieter and the holiday rush builds toward Christmas. Travelers with flexible dates can aim for the first half of the month, when the lights are up and the crowds have not yet peaked. The crowds are part of the season, so a slow start each morning goes a long way.

What to pack for La Fortuna in December

Pack for warm days, wet moments and cool evenings, with a few items that pay off in the forest and at the springs.

A light rain jacket, because showers come on most days.
Shoes with good grip for the damp waterfall stairs and forest trails.
Pack a swimsuit plus a quick-dry towel for the springs and the waterfall pool.
A light sweater for cool evenings after a soak.
Sunscreen and insect repellent for the bridges and trails.
A small waterproof bag to protect a phone and camera.

Good to know before you go

The U.S. State Department rates Costa Rica Level 2, ‘Exercise increased caution,’ due to crime; it says petty crime is common throughout Costa Rica and that violent crime also affects tourists, including armed robbery, homicide and sexual assault.

Roads to the area can be slow, so leave extra time between stops.

La Fortuna in December vs November and January

Moving the trip to November means more rain and gray skies, with the volcano hidden more often, but fewer visitors and an easier time finding a room. The festive lights have not yet reached full glow, and the town feels like a quieter place. It suits travelers who prefer calm over holiday color and who can live with wet afternoons.

January brings noticeably fewer rainy days, so more morning views and an easier time on the trails. The holiday mood fades after New Year’s, but the high season continues and rooms stay in demand. It suits travelers who put weather ahead of festivities.

Choose December for lights, family atmosphere and the start of the drier turn. Shift to January for steadier skies, or to November for quiet and flexibility.

Is December a good time to visit La Fortuna?

If you are looking for warm water, green forest and a festive mood, and you do not mind some rain along the way, then December is a good time to travel.

It suits families, couples and anyone who pictures a soak in the hot springs under Christmas lights. For anyone hoping for deserted paths, a sure volcano sighting or cheap lodging during the holiday weeks, it falls short. On arrival, start with a hot spring evening to shake off the travel and settle into the pace. What makes December special in La Fortuna is the mix of steam and lights, with the volcano brooding above a town in a holiday mood and a plate of hot casado at the end of the day.

Sources

Open-Meteo / ECMWF ERA5, normals 1991-2020 computed for the grid cell at 10.4679N 84.6427W, checked October 8, 2026
sunrise-sunset.org, sunrise and sunset calculated for the 15th of the month, checked October 8, 2026
U.S. Department of State, Costa Rica Travel Advisory, issued April 1, 2026 (https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/costa-rica-travel-advisory.html), read via the State Department open data API on October 8, 2026