In May, the first regular afternoon rains drum on the tin roofs around the main square in La Fortuna, and the hills behind town turn a deeper green almost overnight. Steam rises from the hot spring pools at dusk, the coffee at breakfast tastes better under a cool morning sky, and the cone of Arenal Volcano shows itself or hides behind cloud as it pleases. This is the month the northern lowlands shift into green season with short afternoon showers and a wetter spell or two, and it suits travelers who like mornings outdoors, afternoons in warm water and fewer tour buses on the trail.
What is the weather like in La Fortuna in May?
May in La Fortuna is warm, humid and showery: bright mornings, then rain that settles in most afternoons as the green season takes hold.
| Month | Average high (°F) | Average low (°F) | Rain days |
|---|---|---|---|
| April | 83.8 | 69.5 | 7.2 |
| May | 82.0 | 70.8 | 20.1 |
| June | 80.5 | 70.8 | 25.9 |
The pattern to plan around is simple. Mornings are usually the clearest part of the day, with soft light on the volcano and birds loud in the trees, so that is when walks, bridges and anything with a view belong.
By early or mid afternoon clouds build over the lake and the rain arrives, sometimes as a short downpour and sometimes as a steady soaking that lasts into the evening. Rain falls on most days of the month, but a rainy day here is rarely a lost day.
Afternoons feel warm and sticky when the sun is out, and evenings stay mild enough for a short-sleeved shirt, though a light layer is welcome once the rain has passed. Streets and trails turn muddy fast, and the volcano summit can stay wrapped in cloud for hours, so treat any clear view as a bonus rather than a promise.
What to do in La Fortuna in May
May begins with Labor Day on May 1, a national holiday, and Costa Ricans take advantage of it. Families head to the hot springs, restaurants around the square fill at lunch, and the long weekend feel lingers when the date lands near one. After that the town settles into its green-season rhythm, with a slower pace, damp sidewalks and the smell of wet earth and woodsmoke in the evening.
The food suits the weather. After a morning outdoors, the item to request at a family-run soda is a casado, the traditional plate of rice, black beans, plantains, salad, and your choice of chicken, beef or fish.
Gallo pinto, the rice and beans mix, comes with eggs at breakfast, and a cup of local coffee or fresh fruit juice goes well with the sound of rain on the roof. Rain also brings out hot soups, and a bowl of sopa negra, a black bean soup with a poached egg, is exactly right on a gray afternoon.
Hot springs, the right activity for a May afternoon
Close to Arenal, the hot springs get their heat from the volcano, and they run the gamut from basic pools used by locals to large resort spreads featuring numerous pools of varying temperatures. May is a very good month for them because the rain that sends other plans indoors makes soaking more enjoyable: warm water, cool air and a canopy of wet green leaves overhead.
Plan the soak for mid or late afternoon, after the morning outing and as the clouds close in. The larger resorts offer numerous pools at different temperatures, while local options can be simpler. Stay until dusk when you can, because the lights come on, steam rises and the pools feel almost private.
Waterfall and hanging bridges in the morning light
The La Fortuna waterfall is the classic morning outing, reached by a stepped path down through forest to a viewpoint and the pool below. Go early, while the light is good and the cloud has not yet closed in. Wet steps are slippery, so wear shoes with real grip, and remember that the climb back up is the harder half in May humidity.
Hanging bridges are the other morning favorite. They carry you over ravines at canopy height, where birds, butterflies and, with luck, a sloth or a troop of monkeys may appear.
Guided walks are how most visitors spot animals, because guides know where to look and can point out what a first-time visitor would walk right past. Animals are chances, never promises, and a misty morning often brings more bird activity than a hot, bright one.
Choose one for the morning, then head back toward town before the first showers. By the time the first showers arrive you can be back in town for a late lunch.
The volcano and the lake
Arenal Volcano rises right above town, and in May it plays hide and seek. Early morning gives the best chance of a clean cone, and the viewpoints along the roads out of town are worth a stop whenever the cloud lifts.
The lake beyond the volcano is a calmer, wider world of ridgelines, small villages and open water. A drive or a boat outing along its shore gives a different feel from the busy town, with cattle pastures, windy stretches and hawks in the sky. It is a good half day for a gray morning when the volcano is hidden, because the lake scenery does not depend on the summit being clear.
Back in town, an hour in the main square is a pleasant way to end the day. Locals gather on the benches, shop owners pull down shutters as the rain starts and the church bells mark the evening.
A two-day itinerary for La Fortuna in May
Day 1 starts early, because the day runs about twelve and a half hours long and the clear hours are the first ones. Have gallo pinto and coffee at a local soda by seven, then head for the waterfall while the trail is quiet and the light is soft. Spend the rest of the morning on the path and at the viewpoint, and be back in town for a late lunch before the sky turns.
When the rain arrives in the afternoon, move to the hot springs. Choose a resort pool complex if you want variety, or a small local one for something quiet, and stay through dusk. Dinner can be a casual restaurant near the square, with a plate of grilled fish or a hearty casado, and an early night follows naturally after the soaking.
Day 2 is for the canopy and the lake. Arrive at the hanging bridges early, ideally with a guide, while the air is cool and birds and monkeys are most active. Then drive toward the lake for a late-morning stop at a viewpoint, and eat lunch in a lakeside restaurant or a roadside spot with a view of the water.
If the weather turns, the rain card is easy. Spend the afternoon in a chocolate or coffee workshop, browse the craft shops around the square, or linger over a long lunch with a local drink. Evening is for a final stroll in the square once the showers pass, with a scoop of ice cream and the volcano, perhaps, finally visible.
Is La Fortuna busy in May?
La Fortuna is moderately busy in May, noticeably quieter than the dry-season months, with a short bump around the Labor Day weekend.
Most visitors in May are a mix of North American and European travelers, along with Costa Rican families who come for the holiday and the hot springs. The green season’s rain keeps some tourists away, so trails feel less crowded, the hot spring pools are easier to enjoy and restaurant tables rarely require a long wait.
Rooms are easier to find than in the dry months, and the choice is wide, from small family-run lodges to large resorts with spring pools. Book early for the Labor Day weekend, since that is when Costa Rican families travel and the best-located rooms go first.
In town, the smaller restaurants rarely need them. Because park and trail rules sometimes shift, visit the park’s official page before planning a morning around a specific entrance.
What to pack for La Fortuna in May
The mix of morning sun, afternoon rain and warm water means a light, quick-drying bag works best.
- A light rain jacket or poncho, because afternoon showers are the rule more than the exception.
- Shoes with a real grip for the wet steps of the waterfall path and the muddy trails.
- A swimsuit and a quick-drying towel for the hot springs, since you will likely go more than once.
- Sunscreen and a hat for the clear mornings, when the sun is strong even in cloud.
- Insect repellent for the forest walks and the evenings.
- A dry bag or plastic cover to protect your phone and camera from sudden rain.
Good to know before you go
The U.S. State Department rates Costa Rica Level 2, ‘Exercise increased caution,’ due to crime; it says petty crime is common throughout Costa Rica and that violent crime also affects tourists, including armed robbery, homicide and sexual assault.
The green season begins in May, so schedule outdoor activities before noon and leave your afternoons open. May 1 is Labor Day, a national holiday, and some local services may be slower around it. You must have a passport that is valid for your entire stay, and travelers also need either a return ticket or proof they will continue on to another country.
Roads can be wet and slow after heavy rain, so give yourself extra time when you head for the lake or any longer drive. Book the outings you care about most first, such as a guided canopy walk or a favorite hot spring, then fill the rest of the plan around them.
La Fortuna in May vs April and June
Move the trip four weeks earlier and you land in April, when rain arrives in short showers between stretches of sun. Skies are brighter, rain is far less frequent and the volcano is clear more often, but the town is busier and rooms are tighter. You trade some of May’s green and calm for better odds on views and open-air plans.
Move four weeks later and June is wetter, with rain on almost every day, greener forest and fewer visitors. Showers are heavier, trails are muddier and the volcano is more often wrapped in cloud, but hot springs feel even better and the pace is slow. Rooms are easy to find, and the town has a quiet, local feel.
Choose April if you want the best chance at clear views and dry mornings and do not mind the crowds. Choose June if you love the rain, the greenery and the quiet. May sits in the middle: enough sun in the mornings for the outdoor highlights, enough rain to bring the forest to life and enough room to move around easily.
Is May a good time to visit La Fortuna?
Yes, May is a good time for travelers who plan around the rain and enjoy a greener, quieter version of the area.
It suits anyone who likes early starts, hot spring soaks and forest walks, and who does not mind getting a little wet. Couples and families who want a relaxed pace will find it easy, and birders and photographers get green, misty scenes that the dry months do not offer. It is a poorer fit for travelers who need a clear volcano view on a fixed day or who want guaranteed dry afternoons for a beach-style vacation.
On arrival, start with the morning outing you care about most, whether that is the waterfall or the hanging bridges, because the mornings are the most reliable hours. Leave the afternoon for the hot springs and let the rain set the schedule. May in La Fortuna is the month of first rains on tin roofs, steaming pools at dusk and hills turning green around the volcano.
Sources
- Open-Meteo / ECMWF ERA5, normals 1991-2020 computed for the grid cell at 10.4679N 84.6427W, checked October 8, 2026
- sunrise-sunset.org, sunrise and sunset calculated for the 15th of the month, checked October 8, 2026
- U.S. Department of State, Costa Rica Travel Advisory, issued April 1, 2026 (https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/traveladvisories/traveladvisories/costa-rica-travel-advisory.html), read via the State Department open data API on October 8, 2026
- U.S. Department of State, Costa Rica Travel Information, Entry and exit requirements (https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/CostaRica.html), checked October 8, 2026
To plan your stay
- Things to Do in La Fortuna: Arenal Volcano, Hot Springs, the Waterfall and Day Trips
- Where to Stay in La Fortuna: Town Center, Volcano Road, Hot Springs Strip and Lake Arenal
- La Fortuna vs Monteverde: Hot Springs, Cloud Forest, Weather and Which to Choose
- Day Trips from La Fortuna: Rio Celeste, Arenal Volcano Park, Monteverde and Hot Springs