Sparta, Greece: A First-Timer’s Guide to Plan Your Visit

Sparta is a calm, green, working Greek town on a plain by the Eurotas river, with Mount Taygetus rising behind it. It suits travelers who like quiet ruins, local cafés and a history lesson without the tour buses. King Otto had the modern town built in 1834 near the ancient city, with wide, tree-lined boulevards, and it still feels pleasant and leafy against its backdrop of hills. The ancient remains are modest, so the pleasure lies in the atmosphere and the setting.

Where should you stay in Sparta?

Base yourself in the center for a first visit, and save the mountain villages for a second night. A night near the main square gives you a slice of Greek town life that few visitors see. Once the sun slips behind Mount Taygetus, the streets fill with people.

Around the main square and Palaiologou Avenue

Palaiologou Avenue is Sparta's main street, and the large main square, with its grand town hall, sits close by. At night families fill the café and restaurant tables while children play. Several hotels line the avenue. The Menelaion, a 3-star at number 91, has old-world charm, a year-round pool and a restaurant, and it doubles as a handy landmark for finding the center. The Maniatis, a 3-star at the corner of Lykourgou Street, has a marble lobby and a buffet breakfast it's known for. The Lakonia, a 2-star near the Tomb of Leonidas, and the Cecil, a 1-star, are simpler options on the same avenue. Just outside the center, the 3-star Dioscouri has balconies looking out on Taygetus and the town.

On Mount Taygetus

For mountain air, look at the villages on the slopes. In Georgitsi, about 18 miles (29 km) from Sparta, the Taygetos Balcony is built of stone and wood, welcomes children and pets, and has its own restaurant. Georgitsi sits on the north side of the mountain, the wilder and little-visited part, with the Kastora river valley, its bridge and small villages. It suits drivers who want quiet, though you'll be driving back to town for the ruins. Hotels in nearby Mystras are another option worth checking.

What are the best things to do in Sparta?

Set your expectations first. The ancient Spartans poured their energy into war and left few grand buildings, and much of what survived the centuries was later destroyed. You won't find a Parthenon. What you will find is a set of ruins scattered among the trees and a peaceful mood that feels far from the city's fierce reputation.

The Ancient Acropolis and Theatre

This is the main site and the best use of a morning, when it's cooler, though the trees give plenty of shade on hot days. A loop trail brings you back to where you started, passing the ruins of a Byzantine church and the Sanctuary of Athena Chalkioikos, or Athena of the Bronze House, the oldest sanctuary on the Acropolis. Broken columns rise from the trees, and signs along the way explain what you're seeing. The walk takes a little over half an hour at an easy pace. From the top, the town spreads out on one side and Taygetus fills the view on the other. The theatre, built into the hillside around 20 to 30 BC, could seat up to 17,000 spectators and has magnificent views. Its path has been blocked for restoration work, so ask at the site whether it's open.

The Archaeological Museum

Sparta's museum stands close to the main square in a handsome neoclassical building from 1876, with a garden full of statues. It was the first museum built in a provincial Greek town. The collection ranges from sculptures and pieces of mosaic floor to pottery, carved columns, small figures and clay votive masks, and one highlight is a warrior bust from the 5th century BC that people call Leonidas. Come after the Acropolis and it fills in the picture of what you've just walked through.

The statue and tomb of Leonidas

Leonidas, the Spartan king who faced the Persians at Thermopylae, stands in statue form on the city's most central street near the Municipality Building, where it has been since 1969 and where many visitors stop for a photo. The so-called tomb lies north of the center, a fenced, temple-shaped ancient building that may once have been a temple of Apollo. Local tradition says the king's bones were brought here from Thermopylae.

Mystras

Mystras, a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 3 miles (5 km) from the center, is the best excursion from Sparta. Follow the signs, or head west on Lykourgou toward the mountain. This medieval Byzantine town climbs its hillside like an amphitheater, with cobbled alleys, churches, Roman baths, stone fountains and fragrant gardens. A trade fair runs in Mystras from late August into early September, with traditional products, delicacies and clothes on offer.

Smaller sights in and around town

Sparta has a handful of smaller sights that round out a visit. Near the Eurotas, the Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia was the religious center of Spartan education, and the Menelaion, the shrine of Menelaus and Helen, stands on the river's banks at the eastern edge of town. Saturday brings the city's public market, a good spot for organic produce and herbs from the nearby Taygetus and Parnonas mountains, while summer evenings can include a show, play or concert at the Sainopouleio Amphitheater as part of the Cultural Summer festival.

What are the best beaches in Sparta?

Sparta sits inland, so there's no beach in town. For sea time, Gytheio, the Mani and Monemvasia have beaches and fish tavernas, and Kalamata is a coastal city about an hour away by car. Plan any of them as a separate outing. In summer, the cooler air up on Mount Taygetus can be nearly as refreshing as a swim.

What should you eat in Sparta?

Sparta is a large agricultural town that sees few typical tourists, so many of its restaurants cook mainly for locals and the food feels authentically Greek. The two ouzeries on the main square are the obvious start, for an ouzo and a few small plates while you watch the square, or for a full meal. En Epalti is a small, family-run fish place that catches its fish with its own boat; order the grilled sardines and go from there. Kapari is a more upscale ouzeri with pastas, a burger with mushroom sauce and large, satisfying portions.

About a block north of the Menelaion, Elysse serves oven-baked dishes that are best at lunch, when they're freshly cooked. Next door, Diethnes serves home-style Greek cooking in a vine-covered garden. Tsipouradiko, at 50 Evangelistrias Street, is another good spot for small plates, and Dionysious Garden, on the road to Mystras, serves taverna food. For a quick bite, Palaiologou Avenue has fast food and pastry shops, and cafés a few steps from the square serve iced fredo coffee with cheese or spinach pies. Up on the mountain, the Taygetos Balcony restaurant in Georgitsi is loved for its home cooking.

How many days do you need in Sparta?

One day covers the main sights in town, and a second adds Mystras and the mountain. The main square is a lively gathering spot, with locals out in the morning and plenty of cafes, drinks and food options at night, so it makes a good place to start and end your day.

Day 1: Ruins, museum and the square

Start at the Acropolis early, before the heat builds, and walk the loop at an easy pace. Head to the museum next, then have lunch near the square. As the light softens, see the statue and tomb of Leonidas, and settle in the square for dinner at En Epalti or Kapari.

Day 2: Mystras and the mountain

Spend the morning at Mystras, west of town. After lunch, drive up the slopes of Taygetus for a village walk or an early dinner at a mountain restaurant. With a third day, add the olive oil museum, the Menelaion or a drive to the coast.

How do you get to Sparta and around?

Sparta lies southwest of Athens, a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Athens International Airport. KTEL intercity buses run nine daytime trips from Athens, taking about 4 hours, and arrive at the terminal at the east end of Lykourgou Street. From Sparta, buses connect onward to Gytheio, Monemvasia, Neapolis and the Mani, so check the timetable before you go. Day tours from Athens that combine Sparta with Mystras are another option.

A car is the best way to see the area, especially Mystras, the mountain villages and the coast. Watch for signs to the center as you drive in, since the town can be a little hard to read at first. The center and the square are easy to walk, and Sparta's red taxis can take you to the outlying sites.

What do Americans need to know before visiting Sparta?

U.S. citizens can enter Greece without a visa for stays of up to 90 days for tourism, and your passport should have at least three months of validity beyond your planned departure date. A passport reported lost or stolen won't be accepted for entry, and officers may ask for proof of sufficient funds and a return ticket. Carry your passport or other photo ID at all times. Greece is generally safe, though petty crime is common in tourist areas, and thieves are known to break into rental cars for passports, valuables and luggage, so it is wise to keep valuables with you rather than in the car. If you drive, Greek law requires a valid U.S. license and an international driving permit, even if the rental company doesn't ask for it, and Greece has one of the highest traffic fatality rates in the EU. Strikes and demonstrations can interrupt buses, taxis and other transportation. Forest fires are common in the dry summer months and occasionally close roads, so check conditions before heading up into the mountains.