Myrtos Beach, Kefalonia: What It Looks Like and How to Visit

Myrtos Beach is the star of Kefalonia, a white crescent of pebbles cupped between tall limestone cliffs and washed by water so bright it looks lit from below. Plan on a car, water shoes and an early start. The road down is a run of hairpin turns, and the beach is at its busiest in the afternoon.

What is Myrtos Beach actually like?

Picture a wide half circle of white pebbles and sand, about half a mile (800 meters) long, with chalky cliffs rising almost straight up behind it. Near the parking area the shore is covered in smooth, oval white pebbles so uniform they look staged. Closer to the waterline the sand takes over, though pebbles still scatter the shallows.

The water is the show. From the beach you can pick out bands of color, running from white to turquoise to dark blue in the distance. The seabed drops away after just a few steps, which gives the sea its deep glow. On a day with waves, the churning lifts white sand and stones, and the colors shift as you watch.

That same surf deserves respect. Waves can turn rough even when the breeze feels light. Swim with a partner or have someone watching from shore, and keep small children within arm's reach. A lifeguard is usually on duty in peak season.

Look up and you may spot goats picking their way across the slopes, sometimes sending small showers of stones into the water. At the far left end sits a small cave, with rocks jutting into the sea around it. Film fans may recognize the setting: the mine explosion scene in the 2001 film Captain Corelli's Mandolin was shot here.

All of this has earned Myrtos the title of best beach in Greece a dozen times or more, along with regular spots on lists of the world's best. Once an idyllic retreat, it gets busier every year.

How do you get to Myrtos Beach?

By car. A rental car is the practical way to see Kefalonia, and Myrtos is no exception. From Argostoli, the island's capital, it's about 18 miles (30 km) north, roughly 40 to 45 minutes. Head for the village of Divarata, where signs point the way down to the beach. From Fiskardo the drive takes about 40 minutes, and from Assos about 25.

The final stretch is the one people remember. About 1.2 miles (2 km) of tight hairpin bends drop to the shore, and some turns have no barriers. Whoever drives should be comfortable with heights and take it slowly.

Public transport is thin. Kefalonia Buses (KTEL) runs seasonal buses from Argostoli to the Myrtos area in summer, with limited runs that stop in Divarata. From there it's a 1.2 mile (2 km) walk downhill to the beach, and the same climb back up. In summer a shuttle to Myrtos also leaves from Agia Efimia. Timetables change and runs are sparse, so check with Kefalonia Buses (+30 26710 22281) before you count on them. Organized day trips from around the island often stop at Myrtos. Boat excursions show off the cliffs from the water, and some let you swim straight from the deck. Either works well if you don't want to drive.

Where should you stop for the view, and where do you park?

Stop at a viewpoint before the final descent. The northern one gives the fullest view of the beach, with the switchbacks curling down toward it. It also has more room to move around than the southern one, plus a small pull-off for parking. Coming from Assos or Fiskardo, it's the first one you reach.

The southern viewpoint is a small platform behind a metal railing where couples leave padlocks, often etched with their names. Bring one if you want to add yours. From there you can see Assos and Fiskardo in the distance.

There's parking on both sides of the beach, and some people leave their cars along the road. In high season the lot can fill after about 10:30 or 11:00 a.m. Latecomers then have to park on the hairpin bends and face a long walk.

When is the best time to visit Myrtos Beach?

The beach faces west, so the cliffs keep it shaded through the morning. The sun reaches the sand once it climbs high enough over the rock behind. Afternoons are the sunniest and the busiest time. In peak season, come a little before the crowds to claim a sun bed. Then stay for sunset, when the sun sinks into the Ionian Sea.

Swimming is most comfortable from May through October. Around midday it can get quite hot, and a swim is a refreshing way to cool down. The end of September, as the season winds down, is noticeably quieter. The beach itself is open year-round.

What should you bring to Myrtos Beach?

Water shoes top the list. The pebbles are hard on bare feet and shift underfoot, and they make the shallows slippery. Flip-flops and sandals do little better, and in the surf they tend to float away. The canteen keeps its food simple, so pack a picnic if you want a proper lunch.

What facilities are on Myrtos Beach?

Sun beds with thatched, tiki-style umbrellas come in sets of two beds and one umbrella. A wooden canteen sells sandwiches, spinach pie, chips, sweets and drinks in season. A beach bar nearby serves meals with views across the bay, along with a long drinks menu that includes cocktails. Free toilets, showers and changing rooms are available, and the beach is kept clean.

The waves and pebbles leave little room for beach activities. The exception is tandem paragliding with No Borders, whose flights last roughly 15 to 25 minutes above the bay. Wind can ground flights for days at a time, so contact them early in your trip.

Where should you eat and stay near Myrtos Beach?

Tavernas line the top of the access road, alongside a cluster of souvenir shops. Myrtos Taverna serves fresh fish, lamb and chicken, with fries for the kids. Alexandros Restaurant offers local specialties and plenty of vegetarian dishes. O Makis pairs traditional Greek food with sea views.

The closest base is Divarata, about 1.2 miles (2 km) from the beach. Small hotels, studios and family-run rooms have multiplied there, many with terraces looking over the bay. Restaurants are scarce up there, so guests usually drive to Argostoli, Lixouri or Fiskardo for dinner. Agia Efimia, a fishing port about 5 miles (8 km) away, has waterfront tavernas and sea-view rooms. Farther afield, Assos is beautiful and quiet but has few restaurants. Fiskardo is a popular yachting harbor with some of the island's best seaside dining. Argostoli, cosmopolitan and active, has the widest choice of hotels and places to eat.

What else can you pair with Myrtos Beach?

Assos lies about 6 miles (10 km) north. It's an easy add-on for a stroll through a quiet fishing village crowned by a Venetian castle. Fiskardo was one of the few places on the island to escape the 1953 earthquake and still has its old glamour. After sunset at Myrtos, it makes a fine stop for dinner by the harbor. Lake Melissani, near Karavomylos, and the Drogarati cave are both easy to reach from Agia Efimia. Without a car, the simplest way to see all three is an organized day trip that combines Myrtos with Melissani and Drogarati.