Paleokastritsa, Corfu: Bays, a Clifftop Monastery and the Best Views on the Island

Paleokastritsa is a string of cliff-flanked bays on Corfu's west coast, about 15 miles (24 kilometers) from the port of Corfu. Days here go to swimming, boat trips and long lazy hours by the water, with a monastery and a ruined Byzantine fortress watching from above. Many visitors come for a day, though the place rewards anyone who lingers.

What is Paleokastritsa actually like?

Picture a road running along the sea, lined with cypresses and olive trees. Small beaches sit in coves below it, each backed by steep green cliffs, and the water is a clear turquoise. There's no town center and no main square. Hotels, tavernas, small shops and eateries are strung along that one main road. Paleokastritsa draws plenty of visitors, yet it keeps an easygoing mood, with small bays, blue water and plenty to do along the shore.

The name comes from Paleokastro, meaning "old castle," which is what the area was once called.

Which beaches are worth your time?

Agios Spiridon, which most people simply call Paleokastritsa Beach, is the most famous, right by the large parking lot below the monastery. It's a mix of sand and small pebbles, with sunbeds, umbrellas and restaurants, and it's crowded all summer. Agios Petros sits just beside it and is much smaller, with shops and restaurants just as easy to reach. Just past Agios Petros, a short path around the rocks leads to little Ampelaki, where you can rent sunbeds, umbrellas, pedal boats and paddleboards for some time on the water.

Agia Triada draws the most tourists. It has beach clubs, loungers, showers and drinks brought to your umbrella, and its perfectly clear water is exactly why it gets so crowded. Spiros Beach is reached by a small, easy-to-miss staircase off the main road. It's a narrow bay with room for just a few people, and there's plenty to see underwater, so bring your snorkel gear.

Crowds peak at midday, when day-trippers arrive, so claim a sunbed early or come back in the late afternoon. After about 5 p.m. umbrellas are usually half price, and the sun stays strong well into the evening. The sea here is the coldest on Corfu, so save your swim for later in the day. Beaches are pebbly and rocky in places, so bring water shoes, or pick up an inexpensive pair at the small shops in town.

Is the monastery worth visiting?

Yes, it's a lovely change of pace after the beaches. The Paleokastritsa Monastery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, sits on a clifftop within walking distance of Agios Spiridon. It was founded in 1225 and destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries, and most of what you see today dates from the 18th century. Courtyards overflow with bougainvillea and other flowers around an old well. The church has a flat painted ceiling with saints and gold ornaments, plus a grand iconostasis. A small museum shows icons, old church books and ceremonial robes, along with a traditional olive oil press, and a little shop sells souvenirs.

Two paths lead to viewpoints over the cliffs and bays. The first begins at a small metal gate on the right side of the monastery. The path past it is a little overgrown, but keep going to the end. The second viewpoint sits behind the restaurant, so head along the trail on its right side until the path narrows and carries you to the end.

What else is there to do?

Get on the water. Boat taxis and guided tours leave from the harbor, the dock at Agia Triada and the jetty at La Grotta, cruising past sea caves and beaches. You can hop off at a beach and catch a later boat back. The Blue Eye Cave, near the tip of La Grotta's peninsula, is a small spot with brilliant blue water that makes a nice quick photo stop. To explore at your own pace, you can rent a small boat and pay for your time on the water plus the fuel. Snorkeling and diving trips cater to beginners and certified divers alike.

La Grotta is a cliffside restaurant and bar with a jetty and a diving board, a fun spot for a cocktail while you watch the cliff divers. Reaching it from the street means well over 100 steps each way, so a boat drop at the jetty saves your legs.

About 3 miles up the hill, the village of Lakones lines its main road with terrace bars facing some of the best views in the Mediterranean, and drinks are surprisingly affordable given the outlook. Farther up, Angelokastro is a Byzantine fortress on the highest hill above town, with a little church, old defensive walls and wide views over the coast. The climb isn't easy, and not much remains beyond a small church and defensive walls, but on a clear day the view runs as far as Italy.

How do you get to Paleokastritsa?

From Corfu Town it's about a 30-minute drive northwest on the road that links the two. Taxis are expensive, especially from the airport, and hard to find, so book ahead. A prearranged transfer often costs about the same as a cab and saves the hassle.

A car is handy, but the roads are narrow, so a small one is far less stressful. Scooters and ATVs are easy to rent by the shore and suit trips to the hill villages. Once you're down by the bays, many spots are within walking distance of each other.

When should you go, and how long should you stay?

The season runs from April to October. In winter the area shuts down and many places close. Swimming is best from June through October, as the water warms, and July is peak season.

One day covers the main sights. Stay a few nights and you can settle into the local rhythm: beach in the morning, a boat trip, a siesta through the hot middle of the day, then dinner with a view.

Where should you stay?

Most of the villas, hotels and private rentals line the main coastal road, along with the tavernas. Veer off it and you'll be walking straight uphill, so a place near the water saves effort. Zefiros, a small family-run hotel near Agios Spiridon, sits close to a green bus stop, and Camping Paleokastritsa has one right out front.

What can you pair it with nearby?

The village of Afionas, with its preserved traditional architecture, and the party town of Sidari both make an easy day out, and Sidari is about a 45-minute drive. No bus runs directly from Paleokastritsa to Sidari, so without a car you'll change buses in Corfu Town.