Kalamata Hotels: Where to Stay by the Sea or in the Old Town

Stay on the waterfront for a beach, sea views and easy evenings with a drink in hand. Stay in the old town for the open market, small restaurants and a neighborhood feel. City bus line 1 links the two, so either base keeps the whole city within reach. The choice comes down to how you want your mornings and nights to feel.

How is Kalamata laid out?

At first sight Kalamata looks like two towns. The old one hugs the mountainside and rises gently toward the castle hill. The newer one opens onto the sea. Between them lies a wide band of pleasant but forgettable low houses. Walking from the old town center down to the seaside takes about 30 minutes, so many visitors hop on a bus or taxi for that stretch.

The seafront stretches along the coast road for a good walk, with cafes, tavernas and restaurants to stop at along the way. The Taygetos mountains slope down to the Messinian Gulf here, so many seafront hotels offer views of both water and peaks. The marina and the city's port sit on the western beach, ringed by cafés and restaurants. From there the eastern beach stretches toward the start of the Mani Peninsula. This beach has a reputation as one of the cleanest and nicest town beaches in Greece, and many of the area's best fish tavernas sit along it.

Which area is best for first-timers?

The marina and central waterfront

The marina end of the waterfront, where the eastern beach begins, puts you in the middle of the action. Cafés with seafront seating, tavernas, souvlaki houses and bars are all a short stroll away, and the gulf lies calm and still at sunrise. In the summer heat, being a few steps from the water makes all the difference.

Pharae Palace sits right on the waterfront by the marina, with sea-view rooms and balconies over Navarinou Street. Breakfast is served on the rooftop and features local products such as sfela cheese, dried Messinian figs and olives. The Grand Hotel, a recent opening near the western end of the port, is surrounded by cafés and bars and has an open-air café out front where locals take their coffee. Vista Marina sits one block back from the marina. Rooms are comfortable, many have large outdoor terraces, and breakfast is included in the room rate.

Horizon Blu, a low, modern boutique hotel, stands on one of the trendiest stretches of the eastern beach, where locals flock on weekends and holidays.

Where should couples stay?

The quiet eastern end of the waterfront

Grecotel Filoxenia occupies the far east end of the beach, at the foot of the Taygetos mountains, and its resort setting suits a romantic getaway. Several renovations have brought it up to date.

Just behind the Grecotel, a vacation rental with two bedrooms and a kitchen has a wraparound balcony looking over the olive groves to the bay. Towels and beach chairs are supplied, and a shortcut through the olive trees leads straight to the beach. A sunset picnic of market finds on the sand is easy from here.

The eastern end of town also suits couples with a car. It gives easy access to the road to the coastal villages of the Mani Peninsula, such as Kitries and Mikro Mani. The peninsula is about 28 miles (45 km) and 45 minutes away, and the Filoxenia has substantial on-site parking.

Where should families stay?

Family-friendly resorts and self-catering rooms

Elite City Resort, Akti Taygetos and Garden City Resort are known for spacious family rooms and child-friendly services. The Elite is a modern beachfront hotel on the coast road, about half a mile (1 km) closer to town than the Filoxenia. It has a breakfast room facing the sea and a sunbed area on the beach with waiter service. Mantinia Bay, across from the organized beach of Mikri Mantineia, offers self-catering rooms with balconies, a snack bar and a pool open throughout the year, which is handy if you want a kitchen for snacks and breakfasts.

Elysian Luxury Hotel and Spa sits by the sea with a full-service spa, an indoor pool and a game room. It is about 2 miles (3.1 km) from the central square, so plan on rides into town.

Where should budget travelers stay?

Simple rooms and apartments

Hotel Ostria offers inexpensive rooms that are simple and air-conditioned. Each has a balcony, and some look out over the gulf. The hotel faces a good stretch of the eastern beach, sheltered by the city's sea wall. Its beach café is where many locals stop for coffee after an early swim.

Apartments are another smart route. A kitchen lets you cook with finds from the open market, and a rental near the old town puts the stalls close to your door.

Where should you stay without a car?

The old town and central square

Base yourself in the old town and the market, the Archaeological Museum and the evening scene are all within walking distance. Vasilikon Hotel 1888 stands steps from the Archaeological Museum of Messenia and three minutes on foot from the central square. Kalamata Art Rooms overlook the square, whose west side is lined with cafés such as Bistroteca, busy from morning to night. The IRA Hotel, just east of the square, has modern rooms and, for a little extra, a small sauna and jacuzzi.

Just south of the castle, the old town is a small historic quarter of mostly pedestrian streets, lined with little old-fashioned shops selling local products. Its bars and tavernas buzz at night. The open market runs Wednesdays and Saturdays, so you can stock up on picnic food in the morning and then ride to the beach. The main shopping street, Aristomenous, runs south from the old town to the railway park.

Getting around is simple. City bus line 1 comes regularly. The route links the old town, close to the intercity bus station and the market, with the sea and runs along Navarinou Street. Taxis are affordable, with stands around town, or your hotel can call one. Kalamata also has a bicycle rental system.

You can arrive without a car too. Kalamata has its own international airport, and the express KTEL bus from Athens takes a little under three hours to the bus station at Artemidos 58. If you come by sea, the port is about 10 minutes from the center by taxi or bus.

When should you book?

June through September is peak season, so reserve those months first, especially if you want a waterfront room. In May the summer season has not yet kicked into high gear. Some beachside eateries, beach clubs and cafés are open and some are not, so check which ones will be running for your dates. If you're driving, ask your hotel about parking when you book.