Balos Beach, Crete: What It’s Like and How to Visit

Balos is a turquoise lagoon on the northwestern tip of Crete, with a sandy isthmus, pockets of pink sand and goats grazing the slopes behind it. Boats from the port near Kissamos pair it with Gramvousa Island, while a rough dirt road and a steep walk let you set your own schedule. Whichever you choose, the calmest hours on the sand come early, before the ferries arrive.

What is Balos Beach, and why do people make the trip?

Balos is the most photographed beach in Crete, and the colors explain why. The shallow lagoon glows light turquoise and deepens to dark blue toward the open sea. Balos is known for a slim strip of sand that links the Cretan mainland with little Cape Tigani, leaving a warm, shallow lagoon to the south and a fairly protected bay to the north. A rocky reef keeps the lagoon quiet, and the water is so shallow that small children can paddle without much worry. That is why so many families settle in at the end of the trail and stay put.

The sand is soft and in places truly pink, tinted by crushed shells. It isn't as pink or as plentiful as at Elafonisi, so keep expectations modest and look along the waterline. Please leave the sand where it is, because the pink is shrinking as visitor numbers grow.

The beach sits at the foot of steep hillsides, with Tigani close in front and the distinctive profile of Gramvousa Island out on the horizon. Goats wander the hillside and graze beside the beach, though they keep a shy distance. The whole area is protected under the Natura 2000 program: falcons, cormorants and shags nest in its caves, and seals and turtles use it as a refuge. The difficult access is a big reason the area has stayed free of hotels and large developments.

What's the history behind it?

Cape Tigani takes its name from the Greek word for frying pan. A small cave, visible from around the lagoon and a short climb from the beach, is linked to the story of women and children who took shelter there during the Turkish invasion. They were discovered and killed there, a sobering story at a very pretty spot.

Out on Imeri Gramvousa, the island north of the beach, the Venetians completed a fortress in 1584. They held it even after the Ottomans conquered Crete in 1645, then surrendered it in 1692. During the Greek revolution the island became a fortified retreat where at times up to 3,000 people lived. Supplies were scarce, so the inhabitants raided passing ships until a British-French fleet drove them out in 1828. Today the fortress is a ruin that serves as a lookout with sweeping views, and a rusting shipwreck that ran aground in 1968 lies off the island's small beach.

How do you get to Balos Beach?

There are three ways: boat, car or foot.

By boat

From May through October, most visitors come by sea. The public ferry leaves from the Kissamos port at Kavonisi, about 2 miles (3 km) west of town, where parking is free. Boats usually make three departures a day, with the last heading out around midday, and return to port in the late afternoon or early evening. A typical trip gives you around two hours on Imeri Gramvousa and around three on the beach. On the island, climb to the fortress first: the steep stone stairs take longer than they look, and the views will hold you longer than you expect. At Balos, boats tie up at the Tigani dock, and you'll scramble over rocks and wade across to reach the beach. A small per-person municipal fee applies. Food and drinks are sold on board, but the snack line can be long. The trade-off is crowds, since the other day trippers step off the boat with you, first on the island and then at the beach.

Departures also run from Kolymbari, and private boats and sailing tours go from Kissamos and Chania. A private boat lets you arrive before or after the main ferries. If you're staying in Chania without a car, an organized day trip is a simple choice, and a public bus also runs to the Kissamos port. Winds can affect boat schedules, so check conditions and the timetable before you go.

By car

Pavement ends at Kaliviani, where you pay a small per-person fee at the booth. From there a dirt road runs about 6 miles (9 to 6.2 miles (10 km)) along the cliff to the parking area above the lagoon. It's rough, with rocks, potholes and old broken pavement, and flying gravel can chip a windshield. Allow 20 to 30 minutes if you creep along and stop for photos. The road is mostly wide enough for two cars, though some stretches are narrow with no guardrails, and goats often wander onto it. Some visitors report that certain rental companies do not allow their cars on this road, so it is wise to check your rental contract before you set out.

The parking lot is small and awkward, and cars easily get boxed in. In summer it usually fills by mid-morning, after which drivers park along the roadside. Many visitors drive all the way in, and because plenty of people come for a short stay, a spot may free up even when the lot looks full. Pick a spot near the road if you can, and park facing out.

No public transportation runs to Balos itself. Private shuttles can be hired from the area; they're pricey, but split among a group they can be surprisingly affordable.

On foot

You can walk the road from Kaliviani, about 6 miles (9 km) each way, and most people need five to six hours round trip. There's no dedicated trail, so you simply follow the road, which can get dusty on hot days, though the scenery is lovely. Hiking in from Falasarna along the rough, hilly coastline is far tougher: about 11 miles (18 km) round trip, and many hikers allow 7 to 8 hours.

What's the walk down from the parking lot like?

A rocky path descends gradually to the main viewpoint at the top of the stairs. It has the best view of the lagoon and Tigani, so even boat passengers often climb up for it. From there a stone staircase leads most of the way down, ending in a soft sandy slope for the last stretch. Plan on about 20 minutes down and about 30 minutes back up, or longer at a slower pace.

There's no shade anywhere on the path, and the climb out is harder after a few hours in the sun, which is one more reason to go early.

When should you go, and how crowded does it get?

Early morning brings the best photos of white sand against the blue lagoon, and arriving before midday lets you miss the bulk of the tour groups. The crowds thin again in the late afternoon. Sunset here is beautiful, and it helps to remember that the climb up and the drive out will happen after dark.

July and August are the busiest months, with ferries packed and sunbeds gone early. June and September bring warm weather and fewer people, though September can still feel crowded once the boats land. May and October suit travelers who prize quiet over beach weather. Balos is usually less windy than Elafonisi or Falasarna, and on a breezy day the shoreline of Cape Tigani tends to offer the most shelter.

What's there once you arrive, and what should you bring?

Facilities are limited. In high season expect a small beach bar with a limited, pricey selection of drinks and snacks, plus basic paid toilets. Sunbeds and umbrellas rent on the east side of the beach and go quickly in high season; if they're gone, the bigger rocks along the lagoon offer some shade. Rented parasols can blow away in even a light breeze, so look for one of the permanent wooden umbrellas. A small shop by the parking lot sells supplies. You can rent pedal boats, and snorkeling is popular among the rocks and sea grass, where small fish hide. Beneath the sand, the lagoon bottom is muddy and can smell a bit at low tide.

At the north edge of the beach the water is deeper and colder, good for swimming and snorkeling, but the shore there is lined with big slippery rocks. Cape Tigani is worth the stroll. A small stream usually splits the isthmus, so you'll probably wade across. A little chapel sits about a five-minute climb up, and the panoramic views open up as you continue, especially from the higher southern cliffs. The cave above the lagoon frames a fine photo of the beach, but the last stretch is a scramble and the cave is thick with goat droppings. Please take your rubbish with you when you leave, cigarette butts included, to help keep the beach lovely.

Pack:

• A backpack, which leaves your hands free for the rocks
• Sturdy walking shoes for the path, plus swim shoes with a good grip for the rocks, the wade to Tigani and hot sand
• A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen
• A large bottle of water, plus snacks
• A towel and a spare swimsuit

Where should you stay, and what pairs well with Balos?

Kissamos, Falasarna and Kaliviani all make good bases for visiting Balos, and Kaliviani has a hotel with views toward Falasarna Beach. Staying out here can save driving and usually costs less than Chania, though many hotels open only in season. From Kissamos, Balos is about 9 miles (15 km), roughly 40 minutes by car. Falasarna Beach, 12 miles (20 km) and 50 minutes off, makes an easy second stop. From Chania, budget about 1 hour 15 minutes for the 31 miles (50 km) to Balos.