The Exumas in September: Peak Hurricane Season, Warm Sea, Swimming Pigs and Crawfish

In September the harbor at George Town is full of masts and quiet, and the afternoon sky builds into towers of cloud that turn pink long before they drift away. The sea is as warm as a bath, the sandbars gleam at low tide, and the crawfish are back on the grill. The Exumas in September is a month for travelers who like empty beaches and a slow pace, and who accept that it falls in the heart of hurricane season.

The cays and sandbars of the Exumas in summer · Illustration

What is the weather like in the Exumas in September?

September is hot, humid and showery in the Exumas, with a sea that stays at bathwater warmth and days that are already getting shorter than they were in summer.

Month	Sea at the Exumas (°F)	Daylight on the 15th (hours and minutes)
August	87.3	12 h 59 min
September	87.3	12 h 19 min
October	85.5	11 h 39 min

In Nassau, highs average about 90°F in September, with warm nights and a good share of days that bring some rain. Expect the same kind of weather in the Exumas: mornings that start bright and sticky, then clouds that gather over the cays by afternoon. Showers tend to arrive as short, heavy downpours that pass, sometimes with a rumble of thunder, and then the sun returns and the pavement steams.

The sea matters more than the air here. It sits at the same warmth as in August, and it is a touch cooler by October, so the water never feels like a shock. The light is the other change. Days are noticeably shorter than in high summer, so sunset comes earlier and the golden hour over Elizabeth Harbour slips into the early evening.

Dress for heat: light cotton, loose linen, a hat and sandals that dry fast. You can eat outdoors in the evening without adding a layer since it stays warm, but the air feels thick, and what you will want is a breeze coming off the water. A thin rain jacket or a poncho is more useful than an umbrella, because the wind often arrives with the shower.

Can you swim in the Exumas in September?

Sure, you can take a long swim in that sea, since the water holds in the upper 80s and never gives you pause at the edge.

Pale sand, sandbars revealed at low tide and water that moves through one blue after another define the Exumas, a sight Deputy Prime Minister Chester Cooper remembers from boyhood days of running barefoot across those bars. Around George Town you will find sheltered coves off Elizabeth Harbour, while the outer shores facing the open Atlantic can bring more swell. Snorkelers have the clear, warm water they hope for, especially in the cays north of Staniel Cay.

September is also the middle of the storm season, and after a passing system the sea can turn rough for a few days even if the sky looks fine. Waves, currents and marine life vary from beach to beach and from morning to afternoon, so let what you see decide where you wade in. A mask, a snorkel and a rash shirt for the strong sun are the useful things to bring.

What to do in the Exumas in September

September is the month to enjoy the Exumas at a low simmer. The harbors are calm, the sailors who linger are mostly seasoned, and the best hours are the early ones, before the clouds pile up. Plan outdoor time in the morning, keep midday for shade, a cold drink and lunch, and leave the late afternoon open in case a shower rolls through.

Food is the month’s quiet pleasure. Crawfish season opened on August 1 and runs through March 31, so September menus are already full of it. Many restaurants use the words crawfish and lobster interchangeably, and anything different is named on the menu. Look for a crawfish salad with onions, sweet peppers and lime juice, or a plate straight off a beach grill.

Swimming pigs of Big Major Cay

The pigs of Big Major Cay, also called Pig Beach, are the Exumas’ best-known animals. About twenty pigs and piglets live on this small cay near Staniel Cay, and they wade out into the shallows to meet arriving boats. Seeing them paddle toward you across pale water is a scene people remember long after the trip.

Access to the cay is by boat alone, be it yours, a chartered craft or a scheduled tour. Morning is the cooler hour for the visit, and the water around the cay is usually clearest before afternoon clouds build. The pigs live on what visitors and locals bring them, with little natural fresh water on the cay, so leave them to their routines and keep a respectful distance.

Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park

This park protects a long string of cays and the water around them across 176 square miles. It was the first land and sea park in the world, and it is a no-take reserve, so all fishing is prohibited. That is why the reefs here make such a good reason to head out on the water on a September morning.

You come for the scenery as much as the wildlife: pale beaches, rocky headlands, and channels where the color shifts with the depth. It suits travelers who are comfortable on a boat and who like their days built around the water. Pick a morning with a settled sky, and give the afternoon over to a cove, a hammock or a slow lunch.

George Town and Little Exuma

George Town sits on Great Exuma and is the island’s main town, home to about 2,500 people. The Government Building is a pastel landmark that takes its design from the Government House in Nassau, and it draws plenty of visitors looking to take a photo, while the harbor next to it pulses with the everyday life of the community. Between showers, a stroll along the waterfront gives you a feel for the pace of the place.

At the southern end of Little Exuma sits Santanna’s, a seaside stop named for Mrs. Rolle’s granddaughter. Mr. Rolle grilled fresh lobster there, and it became the signature dish that drew people to the spot. In September, with crawfish in season, a lobster lunch with a view of the water is an easy plan for a gray, breezy afternoon.

One more local pleasure is worth seeking out. The Exuma Sailing Club trains young Exumians in Elizabeth Harbour, free of charge, and has done so since 2013. On a calm afternoon you may see small sails dotting the harbor, a pleasant reminder that the cays are a home as well as a destination.

A two-day itinerary for the Exumas in September

Day 1 belongs to George Town and the south. Sunrise comes with a soft, pink light over Elizabeth Harbour, and the first hours are the ones to use. Stroll along the water’s edge, take in the Government Building, then linger over a leisurely morning meal at a café by the harbor. As the day heats up, move to shade and a long lunch, ideally of grilled crawfish or a salad.

Later in the day, make your way to Santanna’s on Little Exuma for a stop by the sea, watching the sky, as showers often gather past noon. If rain comes, wait it out under cover with a cold drink, because it usually passes. Return for sunset, which falls earlier than in summer given the 12 hours or so of daylight, and finish with dinner at a harbor restaurant.

Day 2 is for the cays. Set out early by boat toward Big Major Cay for the pigs, then continue through the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park for a swim or a snorkel in the clearest hours.

Aim to be back near shore by early afternoon, before clouds gather. If the weather turns, spend the afternoon on a veranda with a book, or look for a local craft stall and a lunch of fried fish and rice.

Is the Exumas busy in September?

No, September is one of the quieter months in the Exumas, with few crowds on the beaches and plenty of room on the water.

The month falls at the height of the Atlantic hurricane season, which peaks on September 10, and that keeps many visitors away. The people you do meet are often sailors, anglers and travelers who like quiet. Restaurants are rarely full, harbors have space, and beaches tend to belong to a handful of people.

That calm has a flip side. Some businesses may keep shorter days, and a storm in the area can change plans on short notice. As a habit, book flights and rooms early enough to have a choice, and keep boat outings flexible so that a squally day can be swapped for a better one. The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism and Aviation follows tropical systems in the Atlantic and encourages visitors to consult the Bahamas.com hurricane page for updates before and during a trip.

What to pack for the Exumas in September

Pack for heat, sun and sudden showers, with an eye to days that often begin on a boat.

Light, quick-drying clothes, because the air is humid and nothing dries slowly.
A thin rain jacket or poncho for the afternoon downpours.
Reef-safe sunscreen and a hat, since clouds do not stop the sun.
A mask and snorkel for the clear, warm water.
Water shoes for rocky shores and boat landings.
A waterproof pouch to protect phones and cameras from spray.

Good to know before you go

The U.S. State Department rates the Bahamas Level 2, “Exercise increased caution”, and says most crime occurs in Nassau on New Providence and in Freeport on Grand Bahama.

September sits in the middle of the Atlantic hurricane season, which runs from June 1 to November 30, and the peak falls on September 10. Most activity comes between mid-August and mid-October, so keep a flexible plan.

According to the Bahamas Department of Immigration, U.S. citizens need a passport that stays valid for at least six months, no Bahamian visa is required for a visit, and travelers should have a return or onward ticket plus, in some cases, proof of funds. Passport cards are not accepted for arrivals by air.

The Exumas in September vs August and October

Going four weeks earlier brings a slightly longer day and the same warm sea, with a bit more rain in Nassau’s record and slightly hotter air. August also opens crawfish season, so the first lobster of the year is on the table. The trade-off is heat that feels heavier and a stormier sky.

Going four weeks later gives a sea that has cooled a little, though it is still warm, and shorter days. October brings fewer rainy days in Nassau and a touch less heat, while still falling inside the hurricane season, which runs until the end of November. Crawfish remain in season, so the menus do not change.

Choose August if you want the longest days and do not mind the heat. Choose October if you prefer a hint of relief and slightly fewer showers. September suits travelers who want the quietest stretch and who are happy to keep plans flexible around the weather.

Is September a good time to visit the Exumas?

Yes, for travelers who want warm water, quiet beaches and flexible plans, and who accept that this is peak hurricane season.

It will suit sailors, snorkelers, lobster lovers and anyone who likes a place without crowds. It is a poor fit for travelers who need a fixed itinerary, who dislike humidity, or who would be unsettled by a storm watch. For those people, a month outside the official hurricane season is the wiser choice.

On arrival, start with the water. Get out on a boat or onto a sandbar in the first morning hours, then settle into a long lunch of crawfish while the clouds build. What sets September apart in the Exumas is the stillness, with pigs paddling out to meet a boat in pale water and a harbor that feels like your own.

Sources

Open-Meteo Marine API, average 2015-2024, checked October 10, 2026
sunrise-sunset.org, sunrise and sunset calculated for the 15th of the month, checked October 10, 2026
NOAA NCEI, GHCN-Daily station BF000078073 (Nassau Airport), normals 1991-2020 computed from the daily record (https://www.ncei.noaa.gov/access/services/data/v1?dataset=daily-summaries&stations=BF000078073), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, crawfish season (https://www.bahamas.com/blog/its-crawfish-season), checked October 10, 2026
NOAA National Hurricane Center, Climatology (https://www.nhc.noaa.gov/climo/), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation (bahamas.com), Hurricane and storm information (https://www.bahamas.com/hurricane-storm-information), checked October 10, 2026
Wikipedia, George Town, Exuma (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Town,_Bahamas), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation (bahamas.com), Exuma Sailing Club (https://www.bahamas.com/experiences/exuma-sailing-club), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation (bahamas.com), Protecting The Exumas (https://www.bahamas.com/experiences/protecting-the-exumas), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation (bahamas.com), Santannas Exuma (https://www.bahamas.com/experiences/santannas-exuma), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation (bahamas.com), Official Home Swimming Pigs (https://www.bahamas.com/experiences/official-home-swimming-pigs), checked October 10, 2026
Wikipedia, Big Major Cay (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Major_Cay), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation (bahamas.com), Exuma Cays Land And Sea Park (https://www.bahamas.com/natural-wonders/exuma-cays-land-and-sea-park), checked October 10, 2026
Wikipedia, Geography of the Bahamas (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geography_of_the_Bahamas), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation (bahamas.com), Island FAQ (https://www.bahamas.com/plan-your-trip/island-faq), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Department of Immigration, Entry requirements (https://www.immigration.gov.bs/entry-requirements/), checked October 10, 2026
Bahamas Department of Immigration, Before your arrival (https://www.immigration.gov.bs/entry-requirements/before-your-arrival/), checked October 10, 2026
U.S. Department of State, The Bahamas Travel Advisory, Level 2 (https://travel.state.gov/), checked October 10, 2026