Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion: What to See, When to Go, How to Get There

The Temple of Poseidon stands on a cliff at Cape Sounion, the southern tip of Attica, about 48 miles (77 km) from Athens. The trip takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours each way by car or KTEL bus, so give it half a day at least. Add a swim at the beach below the temple and a seafood dinner, and it becomes a full day that ends with one of the finest sunsets in Greece.

What is the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion?

Picture white marble columns on a headland about 200 feet (60 m) above the sea, with water on three sides and the wind coming straight off it. That's Sounion. The temple was built between 444 and 440 BC, in the same Golden Age of Athens that produced the Parthenon, and it was dedicated to Poseidon, god of the sea. It rose on the remains of an older temple that the Persians destroyed.

The headland was also a landmark for sailors. For ancient Athenians it was the last sign of home as they sailed out and the first as they came back. Ferries bound for the islands still pass beneath it, and for many Greeks that is the moment Athens is truly behind them.

The temple is Doric, with 6 columns at each end and 13 along each side, 34 in all. Many still stand, and four on the north side were put back up in the late 1950s. The columns are about 20 feet (6 m) tall and unusually slender, cut from marble quarried nearby, and the stone seems to glow in the late afternoon light.

Look for Lord Byron's name, which the poet scratched into the stone in the 19th century. Byron's carving is found low on the first column to your right as you step into the temple area, and the lettering is faded yet still readable. The temple itself is roped off, but you can stand close enough to read graffiti carved into the columns, some of it centuries old. Binoculars or a long zoom lens help.

The view is half the reason to come. When the air is clear, the views stretch out to Kea, Kythnos and Serifos in the southeast, with Aegina off to the west.

When is the best time to visit Cape Sounion?

Late afternoon into sunset is the classic choice. Arrive about 90 minutes before the sun goes down, while the afternoon light is still warm on the columns, then watch the marble turn from white to gold to amber as the sun drops toward the sea. The site closes at sunset, so look up the sunset time for your date and plan backward from it.

Mornings have their own appeal. The light on the marble is lovely, few visitors are around, and it's cooler. Midday in summer is the hardest time: hot, bright and busy, with very little shade. On any schedule, weekdays are much calmer than summer weekends.

How do you get to Cape Sounion from Athens?

By car you have two main routes. The coastal road follows Poseidonos Avenue through Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza, then continues on the Athinion Souniou road to the cape. It's the scenic choice, has no tolls and adds about 15 minutes. The faster inland route takes the A6 highway, which charges tolls, toward Markopoulo. Gas stations are few along the Athinion Souniou road, so fill up before you leave the city.

The buses depart from the Mavromateon terminal in central Athens, on the western edge of Pedion Areos park. The coastal service rolls through the same seaside towns as the scenic drive, and the views are on the western side of the bus. Some buses take the inland road instead, and timetables change, so check the schedule before you go. Confirm the last return departure too, since you'll want to stay for the sunset.

Organized afternoon and sunset tours are the easiest option. They handle the transport, time the visit for sunset and bring you back after dark. For a group, a taxi or private driver works well and lets you stop for lunch along the way. Driving back, the inland highway is faster than the coast.

There's no marked lot at the cape. Cars park along the road near the entrance, where you'll also find a cafe and a museum shop at the foot of the hill.

How much time do you need, and what should you bring?

Allow about 4 to 5 hours on an organized tour, including the return to Athens. Add the beach and a meal and you've used almost a whole day.

The path up to the temple is steep, rugged and uneven, and strollers won't manage it. Wear comfortable shoes. With so little shade, bring a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen and a refillable water bottle. Pack light: there's no cloakroom, so leave big backpacks behind. A light jacket earns its place even on a warm day, because the clifftop turns windy and chilly as night comes on.

The cliff edges are unprotected in places, so many visitors keep a close eye on children here. The cafe and visitor facilities near the entrance close well before sunset, so use the restrooms before you walk up.

When is the Temple of Poseidon open, and how do you buy tickets?

The site is open year-round, from morning until sunset, and it opens a little later in winter than in summer. Tickets, with full and reduced rates, are sold at the entrance. Check current prices and hours with the Greek Ministry of Culture before you go.

Easter changes the schedule. The Easter Sunday and May Day closures apply to archaeological sites, monuments and museums, while on Good Friday sites welcome visitors from 12:00 pm to 5:00 pm, and on Holy Saturday from 8:30 am to 3:30 pm.

What else can you do near Cape Sounion?

Start with the beach. Just below the temple, a small bay with clean water has umbrellas, sunbeds, a beach bar and showers, and it feels like a Greek island an hour or so from Athens. The Aegeon Beach Hotel controls most of the sand, yet the rest is still there for you to settle in and enjoy the clean sea. Umbrellas and beds are optional rentals.

Then eat seafood. The tavernas by the beach serve roasted squid, steamed mussels and shrimp with ouzo, a cold beer or a glass of wine. Akroyiali sits right on the water and is a fine spot to watch the sunset, and taxi drivers favor Elias, the taverna higher up. For more choice, the port town of Lavrio is a short drive up the coast, where the ouzeri near the fish market serve some of the best food in the area. Anavyssos, on the way down from Athens, is known for its seaside fish tavernas, and if you're driving back hungry, Vari is famous for grilled lamb and pork.

For a full day, swim at a Riviera beach or the thermal lake at Vouliagmeni in the morning, have a late lunch on the coast, reach the temple by late afternoon, stay for sunset, then have dinner by the sea.

If you would like to stay the night, Sounion and the Athens Riviera have plenty of lodging, including luxury hotels and the Aegeon Beach Hotel on the shore right below the temple. Sleeping here means you can linger over the sunset and dinner without watching the clock for the last bus back.