Amalfi Travel Guide: Cathedral and Cloister, Corsa del Santo and Summer Weather

Amalfi sits on the sea where two gulfs meet. It suits travelers who want a cathedral with a 13th-century cloister, small museums and a coast with several towns to choose from: Amalfi, Positano, Ravello and Praiano.

Summer is the catch. In July and August the SS163 coast road slows to walking pace and the SITA buses travel packed. Restricted traffic zones (ZTL) are active in Amalfi, Positano and Ravello.

At a glance

• Setting: on the sea, where two gulfs meet
• Towns on the coast: Amalfi, Positano, Ravello, Praiano
• Practical base: Amalfi, the hub of the coast
• Cheapest base: Salerno, with a regional railway station
• Festival: Corsa del Santo, June 27 and November 30

Where is Amalfi and what is it like?

Amalfi lies on the sea, where two gulfs meet and mingle. It works as the practical hub of the coast, and its neighbors are Positano, Ravello and Praiano. Sorrento is another practical base, with a train to Naples.

Each town has its own pace. Ravello sits about 1,150 feet (350 m) above sea level and has no beach of its own. Praiano is the quietest, most residential alternative. Amalfi’s beaches are described as authentic jewels carved by the sea at the foot of sun-scorched rocks. Capri can be reached only by ferry or hydrofoil.

The past is easy to read in the town. The cathedral bell tower was built in Romanesque style between 1180 and 1276. The Museo della Bussola e del Ducato Marinaro stands in the Arsenale della Repubblica.

What is there to do in Amalfi?

Duomo di Sant’Andrea and the Chiostro del Paradiso

The Duomo di Sant’Andrea is a monumental complex. It includes a crypt, two communicating basilicas, a staircase to the atrium, a bell tower and the Chiostro del Paradiso.

The cloister was built in 1268 by Archbishop Filippo Augustariccio as a cemetery for nobles. The bell tower went up in Romanesque style between 1180 and 1276. The Palazzo Arcivescovile is on salita Episcopio.

The Basilica also hosts the Museum of Sacred Art of the Duomo, so plan the visit around the cloister and the museum together.

Valle dei Mulini and the paper tradition

The Museo della Carta is in operation in the Valle dei Mulini. Hand-made paper is one of the crafts Amalfi is known for.

Other crafts of Amalfi are artistic ceramics, limoncello and sandals.

Arsenale and the Museo della Bussola

The Arsenal Experience offers multilingual guided tours of about 30 minutes each, included in the ticket price. That is short enough to fit between the cathedral and lunch.

The Arsenale infopoint has a merchandising area with compasses, gadgets and manuals.

Market days, the Corsa del Santo and Christmas

The Mercatino del Contadino, a farmers’ market, takes place in piazza Municipio. It normally runs on the first and third Saturday of the month.

The Corsa del Santo takes place on June 27 and November 30. Christmas in Amalfi is described as a flagship event in Campania.

If you want history and crafts, start with the cathedral and the paper valley. If you want the sea, the beaches at the foot of the rocks are the draw. Ravello suits you less if a beach matters, since it has none of its own.

Where to stay in Amalfi

Amalfi is the practical hub of the coast, and Positano, Ravello and Praiano are the other towns to base yourself in. Praiano is the quietest and most residential. Ravello sits high above the sea and has no beach. Sorrento is a practical base with a train to Naples. Salerno is the cheapest base, with a regional railway station.

From Easter to October, and markedly from June to August, prices rise and the SS163 gets congested. Book early for those months. Staying in a smaller hamlet or a quieter town also helps, since the town’s tourism managers are promoting lesser-known areas of Amalfi to spread out visitors.

When should you go to Amalfi?

May reaches 77°F (25°C) in the afternoon with about four rainy days. June reaches 85°F (30°C) with two. The Corsa del Santo on June 27 falls in June.

July and August are the season to avoid if you dislike crowds or traffic. July highs reach 91°F (33°C), and the coast road and buses are at their worst.

Winter is mild and wetter. January has highs of 58°F (15°C), lows of 49°F (9°C) and about nine rainy days. Amalfi is increasingly requested in the low season, and Christmas is a flagship event there.

What to know before visiting Amalfi

According to travel.state.gov, U.S. citizens can stay in Italy for 90 days without a tourist or business visa.

• Passports must be valid for at least 3 months beyond your planned date of departure from the Schengen area. A 6-month validity is recommended, and passports must have 2 blank pages for the entry stamp.
• You will need proof of sufficient funds and a return plane ticket.
• Italy has a 10,000 euro currency limit on entry and on exit, or the equivalent.
• There are no vaccination requirements.
• Travelers visiting for tourism up to 90 days must fill out a “dichiarazione di presenza”.