Where to go, and when · with the homework done
LUMINOUS LAGOON · FALMOUTH · THE NIGHT ATTRACTION The captain kills the engine, someone trails a hand over the side, and the black water answers in blue-white sparks that follow every finger. The glow comes from dinoflagellates, microscopic organisms that flash when the water around them is disturbed (the standard marine-biology account, and the briefing … Read more
BLUE MOUNTAIN PEAK · JAMAICA · 7,402 FT What there is to do here, activity by activity, is on things to do in the Blue Mountains. An hour or two above the beach bars, the temperature drops, the roadside turns to tree fern and cloud, and Jamaica stops looking like its own postcard. The range … Read more
SOUTH COAST · JAMAICA · REBUILDING, ADDRESS BY ADDRESS What there is to do here, activity by activity, is on things to do on the south coast. The south coast is Jamaica with the volume turned down: fishing coves instead of resort strips, cactus and cattle pasture instead of rainforest, and a village called Treasure … Read more
KINGSTON · JAMAICA · THE CULTURAL CAPITAL Kingston is the Jamaica the resort strip leaves out: a working capital of galleries, record shops, patty queues and traffic, with the Blue Mountains standing over it like a wall of green. Nobody comes here for sand. People come for one address in particular, 56 Hope Road, and … Read more
PORT ANTONIO · JAMAICA · THE COAST WITHOUT WRISTBANDS Port Antonio sits at the far northeast corner of the island, hours past the point where package tourism gives up, and that distance is the whole product. No cruise berth, no wristbands, no continuous wall of all-inclusives along the shore. What Portland kept instead is the … Read more
MONTEGO BAY · JAMAICA · THE ISLAND’S FRONT DOOR Montego Bay in detail: things to do · where to stay · day trips · three days · airport transfers · safety. Nearly every Jamaican vacation starts here, and most of them last about forty minutes: bag claim, transfer van, gone west or east before the … Read more
